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  2. Great news, looking forward to seeing the progress
  3. I tested the fit on the bicep for 20mm cover strips and it seems about right to bend my arm comfortably. I got the left forearm and bicep marked to 10mm per side for the first cut. For these sides, is it better to use lexan scissors and even out with sandpaper or score and snap with clamps and a straight edge? Based on my initial trimming the score and snap requires less sanding but scissors would follow the line better with the curve of the armor.
  4. Today
  5. With HeadShotProps, do not trust any date of shipping they give you. (From my experience) The product quality is sturdy and good, but my god, the shipping delays. I ordered a R1 TK helmet, It arrived on May 13th, 2020. I ordered it in January. The estimate was Feburary. When I asked about the helmet progress, it took around 1.5 weeks to get a response (which isn't horrible, people have lives outside this.). Every date I was told the helmet would ship was missed. Be it "2 weeks from now", "This weekend" or "on the 15th" for example. Oh, and then communication just stopped. In the end, I didn't even think I was going to get a helmet. I was completely confused when I had a package arrive for me in May. I'm glad I got what I paid for in the end, perhaps that's the accidental business practice HSP has. I was told the delays was due to a manufacturing problem with the new machines + install, then there was no excuses, just dates and missing dates. And then COVID-19 happened. I like to think it was just a load of unfortunate coincidences. I own a 850 Armorworks kit, its approve-able. You can check my build log from my profile to see all the parts I got for my costume to be. As ImperialValour said too, he has a 850 kit and is 501st approved.
  6. As Tony (ukswrath) mentioned, you really can't get any more screen accurate that RS. It has those glorious lumps and bumps in the bucket and their customer service is second to none! However, AP is also a fantastic choice. All of the armorers listed in our "vetted sellers" area are there for a reason... tried and true products from quality sellers, so you can't go wrong.
  7. Sanded down the putty to 220. Taped the openings from the outside. Looks weird lol. Here's the interior before primer. And after. I think I'll give it until tomorrow before I sand the inside to 400. And then I'll (hopefully) brush paint some black acrylic in there!
  8. They are however easy to make. Feel free to pm me for any help. Or just ask here...
  9. There seems to be a error with that link of some reason?
  10. For covering the screws, i would recommend to trim them first, you can use a square of foam, glue it with superglue or zap a gap. Place a piece of Velcro to attach the lenses. This is a practical solution. another practical solution for padding and easy to clean after trooping.
  11. Helmet assembled, but don’t have the covers for the Ear screws, suggestions so I don’t rip off my flesh when trying to put the bucket on? Also padding suggestions, I want to use padding vs hard hat because I don’t have a lot of room in there and know I will need a fan or two... the visor is just set in place for now, likely will cut it down Thoughts? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. I live in the US, but am not opposed to buying from overseas if it's for a really good kit. I feel like I'm drawn to RS and AP now, but how accurate is AP's bucket compared to RS?
  13. Fortunately you have a lot of options given your height. ATA, AP, etc. you can check with each to find out time (wait list) and cost. EDIT: it also depends on where you are located, e.g. US vs. UK/EU and shipping/duties.
  14. I used 850 Armor Works for my TK and got approved with no issue. As several people have mentioned, Jim Tripon also makes a fibreglass kit out of the Philippines.
  15. Hi and welcome to FISD. If it were me I would get the armor from RS (they have a nice sale going on right now) and the helmet from AP - good luck
  16. Hi, so I was "this" close to buying stunt armor from TM and know that he is no longer recommended as a vetted maker now. Who would you say most closely resembles his work...so screen accurate but without the lumps, etc on the bucket? I'm a 5'7" female. Thanks.
  17. So I was planning on taping the interior today to prep for my acrylic paint to arrive, but my buddy recommended sanding and priming the fiberglass resin to ensure adhesion. I guess THAT'S what I'll do today.
  18. The upgrade is complete! A few issues needed overcoming, annoyingly I suspect these could have been avoided if I had done an extruder calibration before I printed the upgrade parts. I was only printing 94% of the material I was asking for so everything is a shade small, meaning holes are a tad loose. Managed to work round them all and it's working so I'll leave alone for now but I'll need to reprint a fair amount of parts and rebuild at some point. The part fan is getting a bit loud which may force my hand at some point, so I'll start getting some of the parts I need in stock as time allows. Loving the new quiet cooling fan as well as the flex bed and filament sensor. Really should have done this when it first came out. Also swapped to the 0.6mm nozzle which should speed stuff up a reasonable amount, First on the print bed was a size test for the helmet. Basically take a slice of the helmet around the eyes and print it and see if it will fit or not. Printing on 0.35mm layers, fast with 5% infill to really smash them out. Don't need to be pretty just exist so I can try them on.
  19. This is my Helmet, as you can see the vocoder has been improved too by removing the paint in excess . Cheers
  20. Thanks, so you are saying the corner of the frown needs to be gray as well.... here???? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. Hi Caleb, looking good. from my view, I think you can rotate the left ear a bit to align the top screw with the trap (green point) , as in the reference you posted. hope this scheme is clear, i'm not good drawing . cheers
  22. Wow, looking great that helmet. Mine is an Anovos Helmet too and if I can make the same improvement suggestions I received here , for basic level , the crl states: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. This is a esay fix, adding a little gray to the edges and you can use some toothpick and mineral spirit (non acetone) to remove some paint. For higher levels, (we hope you may want to go further and have the best look to your armor), I would suggest according to the crl: Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. Changing the hovi mic mesh is easy, I have done several. look at the following photos and you can try or leave it for a future time. Cheers.
  23. After deciding the faceplate positioning and getting magnets in place in the traps and just under the rivet locations, I was ready to drill the holes for the rivets. Here’s where the ear caps come back into play & time to decide their positioning a bit as well. In order to determine the position of the lower rivets, I needed to know where the bottom of each ear cap would fall. I decided that the holes in the caps here were safe to drill out since those definitely won’t change. I was also aiming to line up these holes with the holes I had already drilled in the cap. Marking the holes with pencil. These were already marked when received, but I remarked the positioning. These are aligned with the divots in the cast with slight deviation to get the upper hole on the left cap just a little closer to center and a little closer to the ear bump. I didn’t think it would have been reasonable to deviate from that positioning too much since doing so would leave a visible divot out of place. The screw heads get countersunk and painted white, so they kinda fade into the background... As a side note here, I looked around a bit at screw positioning and it seems to vary a lot from being roughly straight up and down kind of in a perpendicular line to the ear bump, as it looks for the right ear cap here, and the screws being at more of an angle to line up with the trap line, as it appears to be for the left ear cap... so screw positioning seems to be up to you for the most part: Drilled out, Swapped sides just to confuse you! And a close up on that left ear cap. These will be countersunk before being finalized, so the curve of the divot will kind of slope into that: Ear Screws – Correct drill size 3.5mm or 9/64” (maybe? - I started with 1/8” but they’re quite tight. I may drill these up a size): Putting a screw in place, it is indeed a tight fit. At this size, it does best to screw this in with a driver (non-powered), as opposed to by thumb and forefinger. This leaves thread marks in the hole. So using the holes drilled in the caps and trying to line up to the holes that I drilled in the caps, here’s where those hole alignments may lead you astray again... Wrong: Right side. As an example of poor placement. This is WRONG, lol. Tilted forward. No-no-no-no-no-no... Wrong: Here’s another angle that is also wrong, though it doesn’t look as bad. The positioning is too straight up and down. This is actually where the holes line up on this side. You can see the top hole lining up in the picture, but the due to the angle of the camera, you can’t see it, but it is lined up under there: Optimal: A lot of the times I see the tilt of the ear caps being referred to as being in a line with the end of the trap. What I found to help me out was looking at the original helmets and seeing that the ear bumps are not parallel with the brow trim. The ear bumps are tilted forward, down in the front slightly. This is the optimal alignment. For this picture and the general alignment of the cap, I lined it up with the lower hole. The upper hole no longer aligns with the divots in the cap underneath, so a new hole will be drilled through when it comes time. Over here on the left side, it’s a different story. Here the holes are lined up and the angle of the ear bump already looks good. With the ear caps held in position, I marked the bottom of the helmet roughly in the middle of the space where the ear caps end at the bottom. The faceplate was locked in position with the magnets on, so no issues with positional changing when handling the helmet to drill the holes. Rivets – Correct drill size = 4mm or 5/32” (Maybe? I ended up drilling these at 9/64". This ended up being a good size for the screws, but attempting to push a rivet through yielded no luck - some could, some couldn't. Probably too tight.) I started with the left side since this side fits more easily together. Marking my spots. Doesn’t matter really where these go since they will be covered by the caps. Left side - On this side, I actually drilled the lower hole first since its position was restricted somewhat by the available space to drill into on the cap. This hole got pushed to the back side from the midpoint of the ear cap bottom. Gripped the tubes together for an easy fit while drilling: Note: All magnets were left in place until all holes were drilled and with screws in. And the grip to drill the upper hole, grabbing through the eye hole to pinch both the cap and the faceplate together. If you have any hesitation in your drilling, you still have time in between the drill going through the cap before it goes through to the faceplate. I drilled it straight through both layers. Right side: Marked and gripped through the eye: For the lower hole, screws have been placed in all holes, gripping the tubes together at the peak of their arcs gives a good fit. The pencil mark isn’t visible, but the hole ended up getting nestled right into the little scoop in the plastic there. After getting all the holes drilled and temp screws tightened in place it was time to check out the ear cap placement and check for areas that needed additional trimming. Left side still looking good, but there is some of the cap visible on the faceplate side. Getting the ear in position, marked the cap with pencil along the curvature. These ear caps are going to get trimmed a little tighter as well, so these lines will need to be cut in further than the pencil line. Right side – lots to trim off over here: Look Ma! No more magnets!
  24. Sure you can, just some painting like Joseph mentioned and you’re set
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