Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Ok, cool. So leave some return edge on the outer, and taper toward removing all in the inner section? Thank you for the info! I'll plot out cut lines and post them before I go ahead.
  3. Event Name: Star Wars Movie Marathon Venue: Pewaukee Public Library Pewaukee, Wisconsin Date: 6/26/19 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. Also, my friend Mike, who this is for, just got 501st approved as DZ-53084. I need to get him signed up for FISD to chime in in this build thread I made on his kit haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks! That was the first either of us have worked with abs paste. He seemed to get the hang of it pretty quick. May try to see how much we hate sanding it this evening XD Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. At 5'10" 140 you'll find most armors may be a little large on you but that's ok most can be altered to fit. As for the suppliers you have 850 (North America), Jim's (Philippines), and I hear there's may be suppliers in the UK and Australia but don't quote me. No one else has come forward asking to have their armor added to vetted list that I'm aware of. When working with Jim's kit it's not that it's harder to assemble you just need to be aware of the fiberglass and just make sure you're using the proper personal protection, like a respirator when sanding. Also, Jim's kit may require ongoing maintenance as it tends to have minor cracking issues as time goes on (someone correct me if this has changed). Edit: I think KB makes a kit, check FB
  7. oh that's what the acronym meant haha, im dumb; Well That's a bummer on no FO kits, hoping to see the list grow some more for them. For the Empire style storm trooper, I'm not sure whether to go for ATA ( Affordable Trooper Armor) or RS Prop Masters. I'm 5'10" 140lbs, 30inch waist slim build. On the list of vetted vendors, it says that RS Prop Masters seems to have everything almost ready out the box, which seems more appealing to me, because of time, though I'm not sure.
  8. Anovos holds the license and copied the screen used suits, not a vetted seller though
  9. Yesterday
  10. ANH stands for "A New Hope", aka Star Wars: Episode 4. First Order armor is going to be either TFA or TLJ. You will only find fan-made versions of that for now... I don't think the screen-used kits have been scanned and recreated exactly yet (but I could be wrong!).
  11. Can someone explain this to me? ANH: it's the original source used in the screens or company that made them? ANH fan made: that it's a replica made by a fan to look similar to the original? So in terms of detail and bang for your buck, I would want to go for something that is ANH because it has the most screen accurate detail right? Is there ANH armor for First Order Armor? I don't see any listed under vetted, I only see one fanmade.
  12. I remember I used clamps for the ends and magnets in the middle , you could try adding them too . but definitely , the drying time is so important. good luck
  13. Rare earth magnets can be found on eBay, i use 20mm x 3mm and 15mm x 5mm, I have about 200 of them I've collected over the years but a good cheap substitute is painters tape, you can wrap around the thigh and use some pressure while doing it and it will hold them tight, may need to go around a couple of times. I just used painters tape on the insides too to keep them together while applying the cover strip, duct tape may be a bit of overkill and leave some glue residue. Make sure you leave for at least 24hours to dry in between adding strips.
  14. I did glue one side of the strip at a time ..... I may need to get stronger magnets... Any suggestions on a particular strong magnet? Also should i duct tape the insides while i glue the strips?
  15. Carry my amp in my belt pouch, have dense foam around it so it keeps the shape of the pouch.
  16. Are you gluing one side at a time and letting that side dry? E6000 can take up to 72 hours to dry fully, I normally leave for 24 hours. Also using a combination of clamps, magnets and painters tape can help
  17. Hey Kevin Have you let the glue have enough time to set properly, 24-48h?
  18. Can anyone help me out? I’m having an issue gluing my thigh pieces together. I’m using E6000 glue but its not holding up once i try to assemble the other side. It keeps pulling the glue off the other strip. Any alternative ways to assemble them. HELP!!!
  19. Another ESB! I love it! Welcome aboard, you've come to the right place.
  20. I am 5' 10" weigh 140lbs , fairly skinny/athletic build. What armor type would you recommend? of the two? What makes ABS easier than fiberglass to work with? Both seem really expensive, and I only have a limited budget to work with, so not sure what is the best overall. Or if there are different armor makers that also make FOTK that fit my size. if so, I don't see it listed under the recommended vendor list, so I'm quite lost. You say Jim's kit is harder to work with because it's flexible fiberglass but the results are more in detailed. Would that be compared to all ABS armor? Flexible fiberglass armor (looks better, harder to make) > ABS armor (not as detailed, easier to make)?
  21. ROTJ belts are made from 57mm poly webbing, not canvas, and that equals approximately 2 1/4" wide. You might want to update the CRL.
  22. Here´s how I did it, got the battery pack though and while Trooping the backgroung noice from the soundfiles completely dissapear in the real life noice
  23. I do have the kit but I haven't started building it yet. I got it #1 because of the price, and #2 because the KB kit is massive on me, esp the chest and back. If/when I finally finish my build, I'm planning on a mix of KB and 850. I received my kit within 1 week of payment, in black ABS. I have guessed that maybe the kit is from 3D printed molds, because there are some really strange decisions like: * The forearm pieces have the inner bumpy greeblie molded in, but he also includes a resin cast of the greeblies. Why not just put a flat surface there? * The TD panel comes as part of the kidney plate, but he also includes a kidney plate. I messaged him about it and apparently you're supposed to cut the panel out of the kidney plate. Why waste all that plastic? * The yoke bridge also includes the upper part of the back, with half of the "O II" detail in it, too. Why? Misc details: * The ABS is much thinner than my KB kit, and details are soft...ish, but not much softer than the KB. * The chest/back is *much* smaller than the KB, which for me is great and is almost worth the price of admission. * The spats come as flat pieces - you're expected to heat bend them to roll them into shape. Pretty weird but I guess he did it so that people can size them down. * The version of the yoke I have has the wings as 2 separate pieces. Apparently he's already updated the molds for the yoke so it's a single piece, and I think there's no bridge piece now either. He gave me files to 3D print the TD which is pretty cool but also includes an ABS TD. I do not have his helmet, so I can't comment on the quality of it. All in all, I don't see anything that would obviously block approval but I also haven't seen many (or any?) approved 850 FOTKs. Hope this helps! -Sha Sha
  24. Working on pimping my kit (pimp my ride reference) and I got a finger activated voice system from Bruno and an amp. Running into a few issues, the amp seems almost too big to put on the chest without effecting the look of the costume or causing extended pain. Was wondering where a good back up spot would be more mounting. 2nd, the USB powerbank I'm using seems to have a power save option and if there isn't a constant demand it shuts off until a button is pressed on the charger. Is there an option where I can use AA batts and hook that up via USB instead? Lastly, was wondering if anyone knew of a good open source program to clean up sound files
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...