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  2. Congratulations trooper! Serve proudly!
  3. I used car T cut to remove yellowing on my armour
  4. More Carida people!! We’re taking over! Welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hi again Riva and thank you for your EIB application! In this review I will ensure that your armor follows the requirements set out in the CRL L2 Expert Infantry Badge and also point out what I can to prepare you for Centurion, should you choose to apply. I hope you do! Let´s get started shall we! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of myself and the entire D.O.Team, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. As we navigate through this review we are going to start with the helmet and work our way down. We start off small by suggesting a little nudge to the middle of the brow trim to level it out. You did really great in making your Anovos helmet mimic the screen used ones and although you did replace the mesh we suggest that you change it out one more time, the originals had a square/rectangular shape whereas yours are more of a diamond shape. We also suggest painting the insides and the rims of the mic tips white for that uber ANH look. Looking at the arms the cover strips idealy lines up bicep to forearm so here we suggest some readjustment to get them in check. Looking at the holster, and even though there are examples of black straps, the majority of the holsters had more of a tan color so we just included this for your consideration. Here the posterior plate appears to be riding up over the kidney so you might want look into the strapping and tighten it up. Looking at the thighs we suggest you even out the amount of black showing by lowering the left thigh and also rotate the right sligtly inwards. You have a great looking blaster and we just have a two things to mention. First, the grip were plastic so it shouldn´t have any weathering, could be a reflection though. Second is the scope and perhaps a bit too much brass showing when compared to screen used ones. Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustment etc. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Below you will find areas that will need to be adressed for a future succesfull Centurion Application. Here we go! The CRL states there should be minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Looking at your gaps we want you to get them as close to that blue line as possible. Suggested ways to achieve this would be shorten the strapping and/or to trim more of the lower return egde of the bells. Looking at your posture, keeping your shoulders and arms in a more neutral position will also help in closing the gap. Dropping down to the belt, as per CRL is should sit at or just below both of the button panels so we need you to raise it roughly to were the blue line is. Continuing on with the cloth portion of the belt, as seen in these pics it´s a bit soft and therefore crease so you will need to replace it for Centurion. We are sure you`re aware that flexible handguards without visible strapping is a must for Centurion so we mention this as a "just in case". Moving on to the back plate we see some cut-outs that we feel should be hidden more and although not mentioned in the text but as seen in the reference images the back and kidney should be somewhat in line. We see you have straps connecting the back to the chest and that pulls the back closer to your body and actually highlights those cuts and especially from the from the sides it´s not looking right. Those straps are most likely causing the issue so we suggest removing them and also look into shorten the straps between the back and kidney. We also suggest you fill in those cuts for a cleaner look but sorting out the strapping might be enough to hide them. We understand wanting to protect ones property but we need you to remove this writing for Centurion, you can always add that back after your approval seeing as the way you troop is up to the Trooper. The last thing on your road to Centurion is to reduce the size of the thighs. We want you to look your best and a requirement for all 501st costumes is that they are proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size. There we have it! Again congratulations on beeing an Expert Infantry Man and we hope to see you back for a Centurion submission
  6. Today
  7. Hi Riddick and congrats on your approval! Welcome to the FISD!
  8. I've heard the whitening process can make the plastic brittle. Is there any truth to this?
  9. I think you should consider upgrading your F-11D with buttstock to a properly sized one. The one you have really throws it off right now. It's supposed to look massive.
  10. Hello, I found this kit on ebay. looking for more expert advice. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stormtrooper-Armor-Cosplay-Costume-Star-Wars-Tax-Refund-501st-Legion-MTK-ANH-TK/273676141294?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  11. Hi Riddick, welcome to the FISD and great to see, you already requested 501st access. Ask any question you have, we are here to help.
  12. Welcome to FISD! Nice to see another Shock TK to be!
  13. Hello from Pennsylvania, Garrison Carida. Look forward to serving in the FISD. THANKS!
  14. Welcome aboard and good luck! Also hello, fellow Black Widow!
  15. Are the connecting straps on your torso armor just velcro, or is the velcro attached to elastic or webbing? If attached, is it sewn on or how is velcro attached to straps? Also, do you know what type of velcro is used? Is it the industrial kind? Thanks, Michael
  16. Wow! I did a rough cut of my AP helmet eyes yesterday with a dremmel and was worried how the eye holes were not as smooth as I would like them. Then I looked at the stunt eyes in this link and feel a lot better about the job I did on mine.
  17. Welcome to the FISD. Feel free to post pics of your progress anytime. Good luck!
  18. My TK adventure started out with with an RS kit on Craigslist (build thread Here) last fall, but it had no helmet. I was totally enamored with the Black Series’ clean lines, and let’s face it - the price. The helmet arrived before the armor, and I got started right away. Many thanks to Parquett and his thread. I have an armor kit on order (pre-order?) from 850 Armorworks. The helmet is more or less finished (is any project ever really finished?). I have wanted to build a *fully* functional bucket for *years*, maybe decades. So I decided to go all out, and arguably ended up with more of a piece of art (albeit functional) than something troopable. I’m not prone to claustrophobia, so who knows, maybe it’ll be just fine. Some things I learned and would do differently next time (why not a next time?): 1. Trim ALL the plastic from the inside. I tried to preserve much of perimeter where the snap connectors attach, but once assembled, the helmet didn’t really fit *perfectly*, and to get perfect results it would have been better to just glue it. Starting with an empty shell would have given quite a bit more room (but my head is small so didn’t matter much). 2. As this was my very beginning, I didn’t have a reserve of scraps to make ABS paste. So I hoarded every little bit, and my batch got contaminated by a tiny speck of black rubber from the vocoder. It turned a lovely shade of primer grey, and then made a lot more work for me filling in the rear speaker hole. (Insert something something power of the Dark Side...) 3. Do the speaker hole first, when everything is disassembled, especially the face. If you need to paint it, you can paint the whole bucket if your paint doesn’t match. I ended up mixing my own acrylic to match the shade, then coating the rear piece with Krylon clear-coat gloss. That added just a *touch* of yellow to the result, but it still matches more or less. I was too stubborn to take the face apart and paint the whole thing. 4. If you want to keep the hideous lenses, remove them while working on your bucket. They scratch super easily. And no, they cannot be heat polished. Or polished at all, as far as I can tell. A headlight restoration kit had no effect. Plexus had no effect. Filling in with wax had no effect. Swearing at it didn’t even make me feel better. And Hasbro, for some reason, does not have replacement lenses. And if you’re going to replace them with different material (recommend), it’s easier to make a template before the last-ditch attempt and heat polishing. 5. I wanted to give the tears/traps a more 3D look by running a groove around the perimeter and filling in with black paint. I think it might be best to leave them as is. I abandoned the attempt on the traps. Here are some pics of the end result (build to follow): Tube stripe and tear detail (and couldn’t find much visual reference for the snout/faceplate gap, so I winged it). Trap detail. Be careful with your Dremel! I also left one vent hole because the back side was a boss for a screw. If you follow advice #1, you should be able to trim all of them: Eye detail, with replacement lens I made. *I have 3 available to anyone BTW!* The first one I cut out was the worst, but looks fine from the outside. I used a bandsaw at work to cut them out on a 12x12” piece of standard TAP Plastics transparent green. After the disaster with the original lens, I wanted to hedge my bets. Turns out the new acrylic is made of normal matter that plays nice. It requires a higher temp to bend, though, and I used two radii to bend - one large (like cookie jar) and one smaller (a jar of jam or something) for the center piece. Vocoder / Hovi tips: Wut: The specs are - Two 12V fans on the rear traps, two 5v fans on the tears and two buried as a sealed outlet to the exhaust stripes (blue tubes) from the respirator. Respirator? Yeah, I kinda geeked out there. But hey, in theory it will protect from a lot of environmental hasards! The filters are easily removable and the default setting will probably be no filters. It should avoid fogging up the lenses too. Mic installed in the respirator, connected to an aviation style portable intercom, which is then connected to the original speaker. The speaker was relocated behind the vocoder (and the rear was filled in with a Tyvek-type material). My roommate says it’s “not unloud”. No special effects at this point. The speaker is only 1/4 watt near as I can tell, and I don’t know if a more powerful speaker would help. The intercom is only supposed to drive headset speakers (though aviation specs are a bit different, at 300/600ohm). Hearing augmentation - two mics installed in each ear bar (if you look closely, the black is drilled out and covered in cloth), going to a mixer, which goes to a cheap pair of noise reduction headphones (with phone mic). If you unplug them from the mixer and plug into your phone (Android anyway), you can have a nice conversation while being acoustically isolated from the outside world. My roommate said he could understand me just fine with the dangling headphone mic. The next thing I want to try, but am limited by funds, would be a visual augmentation system. The Vufine display is the only one I could find that acts as a straight display, is small and affordable. AR would be nice, but I think a workable system would start at $2k. Hook that up to a Raspberry Pi, with a camera designed for the Pi. They make IR passive cameras too. I figure since you can’t really see out of the bucket anyway, covering up one eye wouldn’t matter *too* much, especially if it has a much better wide-field view of the world.
  19. TK 35623 requesting access upgrades https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=30350
  20. I was thinking of using 2 part apoxie sculpt, but was worried about the curing because it emits heat as it cures. Does this emit heat or was there any deformation of plastic when using this? Thanks!
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