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  2. ROTJ belts are made from 57mm poly webbing, not canvas, and that equals approximately 2 1/4" wide. You might want to update the CRL.
  3. Here´s how I did it, got the battery pack though and while Trooping the backgroung noice from the soundfiles completely dissapear in the real life noice
  4. I do have the kit but I haven't started building it yet. I got it #1 because of the price, and #2 because the KB kit is massive on me, esp the chest and back. If/when I finally finish my build, I'm planning on a mix of KB and 850. I received my kit within 1 week of payment, in black ABS. I have guessed that maybe the kit is from 3D printed molds, because there are some really strange decisions like: * The forearm pieces have the inner bumpy greeblie molded in, but he also includes a resin cast of the greeblies. Why not just put a flat surface there? * The TD panel comes as part of the kidney plate, but he also includes a kidney plate. I messaged him about it and apparently you're supposed to cut the panel out of the kidney plate. Why waste all that plastic? * The yoke bridge also includes the upper part of the back, with half of the "O II" detail in it, too. Why? Misc details: * The ABS is much thinner than my KB kit, and details are soft...ish, but not much softer than the KB. * The chest/back is *much* smaller than the KB, which for me is great and is almost worth the price of admission. * The spats come as flat pieces - you're expected to heat bend them to roll them into shape. Pretty weird but I guess he did it so that people can size them down. * The version of the yoke I have has the wings as 2 separate pieces. Apparently he's already updated the molds for the yoke so it's a single piece, and I think there's no bridge piece now either. He gave me files to 3D print the TD which is pretty cool but also includes an ABS TD. I do not have his helmet, so I can't comment on the quality of it. All in all, I don't see anything that would obviously block approval but I also haven't seen many (or any?) approved 850 FOTKs. Hope this helps! -Sha Sha
  5. Working on pimping my kit (pimp my ride reference) and I got a finger activated voice system from Bruno and an amp. Running into a few issues, the amp seems almost too big to put on the chest without effecting the look of the costume or causing extended pain. Was wondering where a good back up spot would be more mounting. 2nd, the USB powerbank I'm using seems to have a power save option and if there isn't a constant demand it shuts off until a button is pressed on the charger. Is there an option where I can use AA batts and hook that up via USB instead? Lastly, was wondering if anyone knew of a good open source program to clean up sound files
  6. Just publicly announced on the book of faces.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I've built a few 850 (AW) kits from Shoretroopers to Deathtroopers, very easy to assemble. A short while back his armor details were pretty soft and their delivery times were lackluster but their process has improved and I recommend them as an alternative supplier. I also built an FOTK and Shoretrooper that Jim makes, again easy to assemble. Both suppliers have their pros and cons. After building both IMHO it's easier to work with ABS vs fiberglass. That said Jim's armors are far more detailed and in most cases more accurate. It's a coin toss. Hope this helps
  8. I sent my pictures to the Outer Rim GML. Fingers crossed.
  9. Tony mentioned the belt too. Every time I put it on I think "Oh yeah, I have to put the velcro on the belt".
  10. Pat, I would suggest to make the strap first to test mobility before fixing that part. looking great that abs paste filling cheers
  11. Still brainstorming on how to fix that lip on bottom to make it straight like it should be. The intense size of the new top splint has caused the bottom to make that harsh inverted ‘V’ shape Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. BIG push took place over the past two days to get this kit finished. Here's the story: I am going to attend a high-profile troop on Sunday in TK. Well, last weekend, I helped hubby get some epic photos in my TK. We used colored smoke bombs. Check it! So, the colored smoke actually deposited pigment into my armor several layers deep. Deeper than anything Novus 3 could touch. I had to resort to using 220 grit sandpaper, and even that didn't take all of the yellowed/red staining out of my kit. Moral of the story (and epic pics): Smoke grenades do not play well with plastic. So unless you plan on converting your TK to a TD, avoid smoke bombs at all costs!!! Which lead me to the reason behind fast-tracking my Hero to completion. My Stunt TK is in various stages of needing to be seriously polished, and it's stained in places where I can't clean. There is no way I would take it to a high-profile event in the condition that it's in now. This made my decision very easy: Get the Hero finished STAT! I spent the past two days fine tuning things for basic approval. I still have to trim a little from the right thigh for clearance, trim a little off the bottom of the right side back plate (both overlapping a smidge), stuff a wedge in the lower back plate for better fit/alignment, and install some fans into the lid. But, hey, it's done! First, the lid. And the pics for basic approval. My son took the pics, and my daughter was instrumental to make sure everything was in place! Then there were the fun pics. This kit is actually more comfortable than my first one, which came as a surprise to me! Today was the first day I put everything on and walked around. Happily, I don't have any areas of armor biting or loud rattling of the plastic. I have to figure out what's going on with the paint on the handguards, because it flaked off everywhere during the photos. Worst case scenario, I'll swap out these gloves for the ones from my Stunt kit for the troop this weekend. But overall, I'm thrilled to finally have the Hero I've always wanted to build. Now to finish hubby's Stunt TK, and move forward with converting my Stunt TK to a TD! And huge thanks to everyone for their feedback during my journey. I wouldn't be here without all of you here at the FISD!
  13. TK 61803 Requesting access please https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=30704 Thanks
  14. Sorry for your heartfelt loss. Sympathies to the family.
  15. Indeed! And I am okay recreating a few things, but having the font just makes it a bunch less time consuming! Just like the Aurebesh font, I'm sure it'll eventually get re-made by someone (and heck, the land hasn't even been open a month at this point!), so I can wait... I guess...
  16. Always fantastic to see another great looking set of AM armor, Robert! There are a few issues that I am sure the Mike will be going over, but overall a nice clean build! As I am sure you will be headed for Centurion next, here are a few items to think about in the time being: 1. The tube stripes on your left side should better match the ones on your right. The left side seems to be arching down in the back. Not the biggest of deals, as many things on ANH TKs were a bit wonky, but something that may have to be addressed. As per the CRL, there should be no return edges on the wrists, especially in the raised ridge. Even the small return edge shown should be taken out. 5 minutes with a Dremel and you will be golden! Reference image I love AM armor... (it's what I mostly troop in) but it has it's little peccadilloes. The edges at the bottom of the back plate tend to flare out like little wings, causing an overlap. @A.J. Hamler has a fantastic tutorial on how to fix em': https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47357-how-to-fixing-the-am-armor-back-plate-overlap-issue/ Hope these help, and see you at level 2 soon!
  17. He has my support - you really should
  18. Ryan I wish I had the right words, just know I care. really thank you and honored to have one of your blasters during this time I will always look at my blaster and remember you both
  19. I try to get them to the dark side early on He is already saying as he grows I need to make new parts for him lol
  20. Some serious Dad-Points beeing scored here
  21. Boom! I should off put this in a different post.. still going to tweak my thighs etc will go for EIB then!
  22. Yes, the notch is optional meaning if the kit is missing it you don´t need to cut it out
  23. many thanks! can i do pre approval for EIB? I am a little bit confused with the kidney part if i should have a notch cut or not.. from the CRL Kidney Armor A separate kidney plate is present, split from the posterior armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top Cut-out notches at the bottom of right and left sides of the Kidney Armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 22 mm tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the Posterior Armor plate.. Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the kidney plate. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. does this mean i do not need to do ?
  24. Hi All, Wanted to capture this build I am doing for my 5 year old that is a 3D printed FOTK. Now I have reviewed the 3D printed files and they are not 501st approvable without some modifications but the aim here is the kiddo wants to be a stormtrooper and the files are good enough that it will meet that goal and still look really good. The file is from CG trader https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/stormtrooper-armor-first-order-from-star-wars I purchased it for about $30 as it was a good base to build for him and my 3D modeling skills are still far from being anything respectable. For my printer I have a Tronxy X5S that has been modified to linear rails in the X and Y axis. Heat Bed at 24 volts and a duet 2 wifi board. Most of the parts I am currently printing in Inland White PLA 1.75mm using a 0.6mm Nozzle and a 0.15mm layer height. I am also using Armorsmith program to get the scale correct to the kiddos frame. In Armorsmith, you get an avatar and with body measurements you can adjust the avatar to a decent model of your body. This greatly takes a lot of guess work out of scaling a print to size. Below you can see the forearms and biceps have been completed in the print. I'll update more as the build and print come along. Currently printing out the shoulders now.
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