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Oh that thing looks sick, very nice lol.

There isn't much weird we haven't seen before It's much the same way as using a pencil wood scribe, I'm pretty simple so a ruler and pencil does fine.

It seems today was productive enough to earn a double update!! After I got home from my wing night I set back to work, finished the trimming for the left shin, and started on the right leg. In order to get the measurements I probably did a weird and just used calipers and a pencil to mark out where I wanted to trim with an Exacto knife. Perhaps a strange way to do it but it made sense in my head. I also used tin-snips to cut in the return edge a little bit to divide it into sections and make it easier, rather than just cutting one big thing. End result after going back and cleaning back up with the Exacto knife is pretty darn good, very happy with how the ends turned out. (I'd have taken more pictures but my phone was about to die :/) Anyway, have a good night, I'm off to sleep.

Requesting access please. https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=39872 Many thanks

Thanks for the feedback, I will add more color/ schematics to the post above for newbies in electronics. This picture was just to show the quick test I made to verify the circuit as described ( final circuit doesn’t look like this, I will remove and place a schematic instead). There is/needs to be a current limiting resistor in the circuit just after the batteries, as I mentioned. There should never be a short directly if there is a bad contact, as it always should be with diodes. The aluminum sheet is there for a good reason, LEDs need to have a heatsink in confined spaces like this. Especially thru for the large array on the chest plate, otherwise the heat generated could locally melt the plastic so just plastic backing directly on LED probably won't do if you want to have the proper lighting level. Alternate is to have a powerboard with heavy copper layers and large ground planes. One should also place an isolating tape between conductor and ground i.e. to isolate the leads from the aluminum. I also potted the leads in silicone to make sure they don’t short while moving around. I will add schematics to clarify

I would be careful when using a metal backing like this, I am sort of amazed thats working as it looks like a dead short to me. Whilst the voltages are low here, a short will happily dump as much current as the batteries can send. Best case, you drain the batteries quickly, less best case it melts something, burns you or worse. A custom PCB here is an option, but a tad on the extra side for most. A layer of clear plastic or tape is probably all you need, though some Vero board painted white would probably be almost as good reflective wise.

I would also suggest looking through our gallery sections if you are thinking of any other supplier, there are a lot of boots which look close at first glance but can have other issues, front stitching, low elastic on sides, large heel and so on. Boots

Hello and welcome aboard and thank you once again for the 3D files

Easier to trim a little more off than try to add it back

Try Imperial Warfighters, see if they can help you out. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063820369262 I thought they'd closed doors, but apparently I misremembered.

Troop #173 4-20-24 The Force Awakens @ Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra

100% that is leather or pleather to get those textures

I got to spend the majority of the day working uninterrupted Anyway I took the clamps and magnets off the forearm and it looked good so I stuck the final cover strip on and hung it up, along with one of the interior cover strips on the right bicep. After I hung those up I discovered a simple but excellent way to catch ABS waste, that being a tupperware. I also got to work on the legs, and trimmed pretty much the entire left leg, only thing I didn't get done was the top of one of the shin halves. I trimmed the top of the thighs and bottoms of the shins completely, I left the bottom of the thighs at at 5mm and the tops of the shins at 10mm, tomorrow I'll work on the right leg, and fitting. Today was quite productive. (Pictures have been added!)

On that time scale you're going to struggle, local vendors aren't with us anymore to my knowledge. Best bet will be to get hunting for some appropriate black Chelsea boots and crack out the white leather paint. That said I'll have a word with the local armoury team, see if I can find a lead. The way they work is they do "runs". They next open on May 17th until 24th, and then close orders again. They then spend the next few weeks manufacturing everything on that run. This means they can benefit from economies of scale, on made to order products or having to hold a lot of expensive stock they might never sell.

Unless anyone can see different, seems to be. There is a definite leather(or leather like) grain on the waist band and the front panels. Hip panels are much harder to tell, but the one on the left appears to be reflecting differently to the waist band which makes me think fabric. The rear panels and front tabard fabric based on the drape, and the way it's showing creases. What I am seeing is something like this:

Thanks for that! The website is in “catalogue mode” for me and can’t seem to place anything in the basket…I’m not too sure if it’s anything I’ve done wrong…or am not doing correctly. 😕

I agree that conservative trimming would be the best approach, thanks! I will keep that return edge on the notch, too.

Keep Trooping does monthly runs. You likely could not get one in a couple weeks. If it was about 6 weeks away, it would be no problem. You're looking for model 421 on the keeptrooping website. They're just white chelsea boots though. If you can find a set locally, you can paint with any leather paint.

Thanks for that I’ll try and dig out some information about how to get them painted and what type of paint is best to use, time is not on my side however, any signposting would be really helpful

May I humbly suggest an ANH-stunt? Not that I'm biassed or anything. Glad to see your intro thread and I hope you hang around for a long time Vic!!!

Yes I certainly do, however I have not decided which costume I want to build for approval.

Thank you Tim and Sly11! You both encourage me. It goes a long way to feel welcomed like this. I really appreciate it! Ordered the rivets and washers with guidance from FISD threads. Was a big help. Next step will be the rivet gun itself. Slowly building up my tool chest for the armor.

Hi chris most boots come from keep trooping or crop props. They are generally custom made to order, so getting a pair by the weekend will be tough. You may be able to find a similar pair to paint in a regular shoe store.

So the main belt and front parts are now definitely from leather, while the rest is fabric? And the borders from the front parts and diamond parts are a brighter red than the border of the rear section?

Hello there, I’m looking for TK boots in the UK, I have an event weekend after next and wanted to know who supplies these now and where I can get them from. As the stockists and stock levels of suppliers seems to be perpetually changing I thought it would be worthy of a topic. If I’m not able to get white ones I can paint some up but I need to know what ones and where I can get these from. I’m a UK size 8 42 EU. Any help is greatly appreciated Thanks in advance. Chris.