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  2. Please enable me for 501st access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=30706&costumeID=76
  3. Requesting access please 88808 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19688
  4. The problem with the RS shins is the original it was cast from had two identical shins made up from 2 outer left halves and 2 outer right halves. These two parts were never meant to match up because they were supposed to match up to inner halves (not present on their original). People go out of their way trying to make them into something they are not meant to be. That said, they can be reshaped using the hot water bath method. In regards to the knee plate not matching up, see above But again, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The originals were exactly the same if you look closely at the knee plates. Not many matched up perfectly. You can go overboard trying to match everything up for your own pleasure but when you scrutinise the original ANH armour, you will see thy are far from perfect and to me, that's what makes them look fantastic
  5. Hello and Welcome to FISD. Looking forward to your build thread and reach the highest level.
  6. Today
  7. Welcome! Multiple costumes on the wist list, I like it! For TKs, I recommend AM and RT, and definitely check out the Getting Started area, as mentioned above. I've also got a Shadow Scout (same thing as Biker Scout, just solid black), and I recommend Studio Creations. The Biker Scout forums are the best place for knowledge about Scouts (Spec Ops for Shadow Scouts). And I also have a ANH TIE Pilot- I recommend Radu (on Facebook) and Intergalactic Supply. And again, the JRS forums for more details.
  8. Welcome aboard! Centurion is awesome, but by no means required. You get the right to wear the Centurion rockers and corresponding red FISD patches. You get a forum badge. You get bragging rights. Really it's about the personal achievement, and if you think that's something you'd enjoy, then I say go for it! Nothing wrong with basic approval, either- you're no less a member of the Legion than anyone else.
  9. that's a pretty good idea for the belt, will be interested to see how it performs in the field. Have debated adding a similar mod to jim kit because I don't like the way my belt sits
  10. sorry to hear about your luck on this armor. Shame wayne turned into the person he turned into
  11. Hey Christian, congratulations on completing your armor and welcome to the ranks. Will you be aiming for the higher levels as well?
  12. And you can mock it up with painters tape, as a rule of thumb in future try to go to 1/2in than work from there
  13. Don't sweat under the armpit wont show much, I did one for trooper and almost had to get it flat under the armpit because of this size. I don't believe the CRL is that specific on amount of return edge. But in general it should fit and look right. Take some pics with it on along the chest and arm parts and see how it looks
  14. Not sure if hot glue will do the trick, but Joseph, Andrew and Tony already provided helpful comments. If you are looking for a different way, you can get a ruler with integrated line-magnifier like this for example. I have seen counter windows being made from this as well.
  15. i want to thank the Star Garrison and the Imperial Rough Riders Squad for helping me get to this point
  16. Thanks everyone. I saw that so many troopers were sporting the Doopydoos, so I ordered one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I bit the bullet and got a new shin on order. The original just wouldn’t line up on both sides and the front. If I lined up the edges, then the kneeplate was angled in at the top, with only a small contact patch. If the kneeplate lined up, then the edges would meet at the bottom, but resulted in the off angle, as seen in the photos. I went with lining up the kneeplate, but maybe it’s not that important? Is it supposed to work out with the best of both worlds, and if so, what went wrong? Also have the ANH bucket arriving soon! I use predominantly ABS paste because of the low(ish) toxicity of acetone...I’m exposed to a lot of fun chemicals at work and getting sensitized to a few, so my preference is to avoid exposure while doing fun hobbies. Has anyone discovered a non-volatile alternative?
  18. Hey David another solution would be to find a local plastics shop in your area and just replace the material. Couldn't be more than a couple bucks. I use Tap Plastics. Good luck no matter which direction you decide to take. Keep up the great work.
  19. The wet n dry fine grit as Joseph has mentioned will do the trick initially, but if you have a Dremmel with the buffing attachment and a tiny dab of cutting compound it will come up like brand new. Ive made a few E-11 lenses for mates here in Australia and even with rough saw marks from cutting up the perspex into pieces, those two have always done the trick.
  20. I had this same exact issue, David. CA glue releases fumes which fogged it up, so I ended up wet-sanding it with super fine (3000 grit) sand paper until it was fairly clear. After that, I used the Novus scratch removal paste to get it clear. https://www.ebay.com/p/Novus-1-2-3-Plastic-Polish-Set-Scratch-Remover-Cleaner/1231451712?iid=400082797682 It probably seems like a waste of money to buy the Novus set rather than buy a new lens, but it sure comes in handy for armor as well. I ended up attaching it using plain old Elmer's glue around the edges, applied with a toothpick. Dries clear, holds great.
  21. Thank Tino. Will try. Have you an idea to fix it without altering it ? May be a little dot of hot glue ?
  22. So, I finally put together my power cylinders - pleased with the results - not absolutely super-perfectly accurate, but closer than the Doopy's standard resin kit versions and cleaner and sharper... 3D-printed capacitors - small snips of staple wire glued in place for the connection wires 3D-printed end caps (couldn't find anything in the workshop or online that I could easily adapt to get more accuracy), a bit of aluminium tubing inside the brass tubing for the 'cores' Kept the red wiring super-simple as per Tino's guide - too fiddly to try and make it 1000% accurate Used offcuts of brass tubing for the resistors, filled the ends with super glue and sanded them flat Then it was time to drill and test-fit the scope rail and see how everything lines up: Determined to make sure I stay patient and layer up the paint over the next few days, so here's everything hit with a coat of filler primer. Tomorrow, a coat of grey primer, then wait a day, then it's silver, then two days for that to degass, etc., etc...
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