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  3. I wish I could help, but I didn’t even know that they had a panel. They just probably ended up giving the same unfriendly and useless answers as always whether or not in person. So to summarize everything that has happened so far: - Anovos does not make TFA fotk armor anymore, only tlj - Summarizing the posts they made, they will not change anything they did wrong and will not tell you when your order will ship, period. Given this situation, can someone please list on this forum the best vendors (that are not anovos) that are actively taking orders for tfa fotk now, since the other forum post is probably not as aware about the whole situation that is occurring on this forum post? Or can anyone reply to the post (that lists the armor vendors) a request look into this whole anovos situation and provide a new vendor guide for tfa fotk’s? P.S I’m going to continue holding onto my anovos fotk order permanently though. In the mean time, I need a second kit from another vendor for this year.
  4. PM me your address and I can mail some snaps and rivets to you.
  5. Have come to a stand still with the helmet can’t work out why the head hole is so small
  6. BBB arrived and started on the helmet
  7. So started my build but while I was waiting for BBB day I built my e-11 this is the finished produCt
  8. Ah fantastic, I'll definitely be making a pair of those. Thanks for sharing the diagram Sent from my H8216 using Tapatalk
  9. Here's another image from Social Media.
  10. The CRL doesn’t specify this so, personally, I’d go with screen accuracy. Check out the gallery (or star wars helmets.com) and follow those. Here’s a few examples; As you’ll see, most of them were cut straight up and down rather than slanted. :-)
  11. I do have a brow question. I’ve seen some brows that have been run past the traps, covering the bottom of them and run under the ears as well as left straight. I’ve seen some that are cut at an angle to cover the trap completely yet contour around the ears. And some the brow has stopped short of covering the traps when it’s stopped by the plastic under the ears. Which is Centurion level correct?
  12. Hi James, You could check out Bulldog Props. Brian is active here and makes great scopes. He makes ones suitable for electronics too. https://m.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/ It’s such a shame that the air soft E-11 has the issues that it has. The basis of the blaster is pretty good - just looks like they guessed where the t-tracks and scope went. Once you e made those changes it’ll be a cracking little piece. :-) When you do get a new scope, remember that it wants to sit about 2 or 3 inches further forward. As below, the rear foot should align with the coach bolt for the folding stock. Keep up the good work, Dan :-)
  13. Those proposed CRL changes seem to be causing concern across builds at the moment - however, there is consideration paid to the CRL guidelines that a trooper was following at the time of their build. So, stick to the current CRL for now. If you have complete photos of your progress, or ideally a build thread, we’d be happy to look over it for you. Best wishes Dan
  14. Alright, so I've only hit some main problem points so far. I'm actually taking some of my other parts to a con this Saturday so I can use them to show others how to repair/upkeep armor, but because I'm wearing it tomorrow here's what I've done. First I fixed the cracking spots. I found in the shoulders on the yoke where the cracks ended and drilled a hole through the end so it would end the crack point and prevent it from spreading. I then ordered some Devcon plastic welder as I heard that this was a little more flexible than just resin or fiberglass. So I mixed the two part Devcon and then filled the hole and the crack on both ends and after smoothed it out so it wouldn't require too much sanding after. I let it sit a day and then sanded it down. As you see in the above picture it still has a lot of chipped paint and problems. So I sanded to 400 grit and then applied some bondo filler over the areas that were rough. I let that sit a day and then sanded to 600 grit. I didn't get a lot of pictures sadly as I was rushing to get this ready for the con tomorrow. After sanding I was now able to spray again with paint I originally used, then the enamel clear coat to get it back to a good looking shiny white. Now it will cure overnight and be ready for tomorrow. another thing you might note from this picture is I've cut out the front section of the yoke that's under the chest plate. Why? Because it wasn't allowing me to move effectively and it made getting the yoke on and off much more difficult. It's the reason so much strain went on the shoulders and led to the cracking continuously happening. Now I can actually get it on and off at an angle that doesn't stress the armor and helps me so much more. I know a lot of vendors are building them like mine was built, but I'm going to say here that for guys like me that are more built in the shoulders, chest, and back, this is so much easier.
  15. So my helmet was a resin cast/fiberglass, but I'd also echo it's easier to do a basic sand to at most around 600 grit (don't want it too smooth that spray doesn't stick, then some plastidip does a great job at not only making it dark, but making it feel more sturdy like a real helmet.
  16. I'm going to trim all the armor before fitting and assembly. Just to make sure, I am leaving 1/8" return edge on all pieces except the cuff of the forearms and the top of the biceps where return edges are removed. I am trying to build to centurion and don't want to remove anything that needs to be left on. Thanks
  17. Thanks everyone. I have the armor on order and will order boots from Imperial Boots on their next wave. One size up from what I normally wear right? I am planning on starting a build thread when I get the armor.
  18. Does anyone know if I have anything to worry about with the new CRL’s coming? I’m working to make my TK Centurion level.
  19. I just taped my butt on, and...wow. I see what must be done. Everything Christine said makes sense now. I have my work cut out for me, it should’t be too bad other than lost time. I’m going to have to redo the rivets on the kidney once I trim it. So, I’m guessing the kidney/ab rivets don’t take too kindly to being reused. And the Han snap - I have a package from Michael’s with no identifying brand other than “Loops & Threads”. It’s close, but not quite the same visually. Are they an acceptable Han snap replacement? Are the Tandy line 24 rivets the same thing? Where is your favorite place to buy hardware? I see Trooperbay has kits, though at this point I only need to replace 3 of the kidney rivets and the Han snap. Obviously RS will have them, but I suspect shipping will take a wee bit longer. Good info! Thank you!
  20. TK 13550 requesting access and an upgrade from status pending. thanks! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=14899&costumeID=124
  21. Hey Jeff I know Troopermaster supplies longer shins and almot sure RWA Creations (Ross8008) does too and you can find them here or on FB - good luck
  22. Yesterday
  23. I came up with these some time ago and they work great keeping the butt in place
  24. I first washed mine with soapy water then gave a light rub with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, it will help paint adhere.
  25. Nice work, looking forward to the test fit
  26. All I saw were the electronics for the display, I was wondering about the entire scope so I would just detach my current one. I was thinking about something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-blaster-M38-Tank-Telescope-1942-Scope-Replica-KIT/122795049049?epid=881057613&hash=item1c9727c059:g:TYcAAOSwIVhaAHe3
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