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  2. Alright, so I've only hit some main problem points so far. I'm actually taking some of my other parts to a con this Saturday so I can use them to show others how to repair/upkeep armor, but because I'm wearing it tomorrow here's what I've done. First I fixed the cracking spots. I found in the shoulders on the yoke where the cracks ended and drilled a hole through the end so it would end the crack point and prevent it from spreading. I then ordered some Devcon plastic welder as I heard that this was a little more flexible than just resin or fiberglass. So I mixed the two part Devcon and then filled the hole and the crack on both ends and after smoothed it out so it wouldn't require too much sanding after. I let it sit a day and then sanded it down. As you see in the above picture it still has a lot of chipped paint and problems. So I sanded to 400 grit and then applied some bondo filler over the areas that were rough. I let that sit a day and then sanded to 600 grit. I didn't get a lot of pictures sadly as I was rushing to get this ready for the con tomorrow. After sanding I was now able to spray again with paint I originally used, then the enamel clear coat to get it back to a good looking shiny white. Now it will cure overnight and be ready for tomorrow. another thing you might note from this picture is I've cut out the front section of the yoke that's under the chest plate. Why? Because it wasn't allowing me to move effectively and it made getting the yoke on and off much more difficult. It's the reason so much strain went on the shoulders and led to the cracking continuously happening. Now I can actually get it on and off at an angle that doesn't stress the armor and helps me so much more. I know a lot of vendors are building them like mine was built, but I'm going to say here that for guys like me that are more built in the shoulders, chest, and back, this is so much easier.
  3. So my helmet was a resin cast/fiberglass, but I'd also echo it's easier to do a basic sand to at most around 600 grit (don't want it too smooth that spray doesn't stick, then some plastidip does a great job at not only making it dark, but making it feel more sturdy like a real helmet.
  4. Today
  5. I'm going to trim all the armor before fitting and assembly. Just to make sure, I am leaving 1/8" return edge on all pieces except the cuff of the forearms and the top of the biceps where return edges are removed. I am trying to build to centurion and don't want to remove anything that needs to be left on. Thanks
  6. Thanks everyone. I have the armor on order and will order boots from Imperial Boots on their next wave. One size up from what I normally wear right? I am planning on starting a build thread when I get the armor.
  7. Does anyone know if I have anything to worry about with the new CRL’s coming? I’m working to make my TK Centurion level.
  8. I just taped my butt on, and...wow. I see what must be done. Everything Christine said makes sense now. I have my work cut out for me, it should’t be too bad other than lost time. I’m going to have to redo the rivets on the kidney once I trim it. So, I’m guessing the kidney/ab rivets don’t take too kindly to being reused. And the Han snap - I have a package from Michael’s with no identifying brand other than “Loops & Threads”. It’s close, but not quite the same visually. Are they an acceptable Han snap replacement? Are the Tandy line 24 rivets the same thing? Where is your favorite place to buy hardware? I see Trooperbay has kits, though at this point I only need to replace 3 of the kidney rivets and the Han snap. Obviously RS will have them, but I suspect shipping will take a wee bit longer. Good info! Thank you!
  9. TK 13550 requesting access and an upgrade from status pending. thanks! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=14899&costumeID=124
  10. Hey Jeff I know Troopermaster supplies longer shins and almot sure RWA Creations (Ross8008) does too and you can find them here or on FB - good luck
  11. Yesterday
  12. I came up with these some time ago and they work great keeping the butt in place
  13. I first washed mine with soapy water then gave a light rub with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, it will help paint adhere.
  14. Nice work, looking forward to the test fit
  15. All I saw were the electronics for the display, I was wondering about the entire scope so I would just detach my current one. I was thinking about something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-blaster-M38-Tank-Telescope-1942-Scope-Replica-KIT/122795049049?epid=881057613&hash=item1c9727c059:g:TYcAAOSwIVhaAHe3
  16. Hello Gray/Jeff! Try to resize your pics so you can upload them, or use a external page ot post them Anyway, i remember there is a post of a tall trooper that made his own extensions for the same reason, making them larger, i'll try to find it and post here. Good luck trooper!
  17. First up, right off the bat...I am a Shadow Trooper. That being said, I am in need of some help. I am 6'3 and love my armor but do NOT like the gap that I have between my knee and shin armor, on both legs. I am asking here due to there being more armor makers for the TK and you guys have been around a lot longer. I need to see if there are longer thigh and shin armor available. If not, do all all have any good ideas how to lessen the gap? My current armor measures... Left shin top of knee plate to bottom front is 16 inches. Right shin top to bottom is 14 inches. Left thigh top to bottom is 15 inches. Right thigh top to bottom is 16 1/4 inches. I do NOT need larger, as I am a slim guy...just longer. Thanks for any and all your help. Jeff P.S. I will try to send pics but my files are too large.
  18. I didn’t do it to my AM helmet but I assume a real light scuff wouldn’t hurt if you wanted to. I used the brush on and it stuck very well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Forearm sizing question: I have sized both forearms to myself and taped them up. The left requires almost no trimming but the right needs a bit. I have measured many times to make sure both are exactly the same widths top to bottom and I’m ready to cut. My question is, (on the right forearm #17 and #19) which do I cut? Do I cut a little off both? I am thinking to cut 19 since it seems to have way more space to cut than 17 but I just want to make sure before I get to it. In the first photo 17 is where my index finger is and 19 is my thumb. You can see the overlap between. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Yeah. The bottoms of the left shin halves are a bith! (and the left shin especially so...) Good news is that coverstrips should conceal all. I'm gluing the coverstrips on now, I've lined things up fairly well, and clamped/taped the heck out of things. Fingers crossed it all looks good once the glue cures.
  21. Having to go off center on a few to make up for the amount of material you have to work with on this kit?
  22. M3 black pan head slotted machine screws.
  23. The birthing process of magnetic shins isn't always pretty... but it's progress!
  24. I meant size of the specific screw. I think I may have stumbled into it looking for something else. Thanks.
  25. That's great, thanks! Two biceps, two shoulders and one forearm glued...getting closer to a full above-the-waist test!
  26. Do you have to prep surface before spraying? Like light sandpaper? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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