Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Hey Jeff I know Troopermaster supplies longer shins and almot sure RWA Creations (Ross8008) does too and you can find them here or on FB - good luck
  3. Yesterday
  4. I came up with these some time ago and they work great keeping the butt in place
  5. I first washed mine with soapy water then gave a light rub with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, it will help paint adhere.
  6. Nice work, looking forward to the test fit
  7. All I saw were the electronics for the display, I was wondering about the entire scope so I would just detach my current one. I was thinking about something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-blaster-M38-Tank-Telescope-1942-Scope-Replica-KIT/122795049049?epid=881057613&hash=item1c9727c059:g:TYcAAOSwIVhaAHe3
  8. Hello Gray/Jeff! Try to resize your pics so you can upload them, or use a external page ot post them Anyway, i remember there is a post of a tall trooper that made his own extensions for the same reason, making them larger, i'll try to find it and post here. Good luck trooper!
  9. First up, right off the bat...I am a Shadow Trooper. That being said, I am in need of some help. I am 6'3 and love my armor but do NOT like the gap that I have between my knee and shin armor, on both legs. I am asking here due to there being more armor makers for the TK and you guys have been around a lot longer. I need to see if there are longer thigh and shin armor available. If not, do all all have any good ideas how to lessen the gap? My current armor measures... Left shin top of knee plate to bottom front is 16 inches. Right shin top to bottom is 14 inches. Left thigh top to bottom is 15 inches. Right thigh top to bottom is 16 1/4 inches. I do NOT need larger, as I am a slim guy...just longer. Thanks for any and all your help. Jeff P.S. I will try to send pics but my files are too large.
  10. I didn’t do it to my AM helmet but I assume a real light scuff wouldn’t hurt if you wanted to. I used the brush on and it stuck very well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Forearm sizing question: I have sizes both forearms to myself and taped them up. The left requires almost no trimming but the right needs a bit. I have measured many times to make sure both are exactly the same widths top to bottom and I’m ready to cut. My question is, (on the right forearm #17 and #19) which do I cut? I am thinking to cut 19 since it seems to have way more space to cut than 17 but I just want to make sure before I get to it. In the first photo 17 is where my index finger is and 19 is my thumb. You can see the overlap between. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yeah. The bottoms of the left shin halves are a bith! (and the left shin especially so...) Good news is that coverstrips should conceal all. I'm gluing the coverstrips on now, I've lined things up fairly well, and clamped/taped the heck out of things. Fingers crossed it all looks good once the glue cures.
  13. Having to go off center on a few to make up for the amount of material you have to work with on this kit?
  14. M3 black pan head slotted machine screws.
  15. The birthing process of magnetic shins isn't always pretty... but it's progress!
  16. I meant size of the specific screw. I think I may have stumbled into it looking for something else. Thanks.
  17. That's great, thanks! Two biceps, two shoulders and one forearm glued...getting closer to a full above-the-waist test!
  18. Do you have to prep surface before spraying? Like light sandpaper? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I've been putting all my effort into trying to finish my helmet. For me, seam filling is always the hardest part about foamsmithing, because it's very hard to get perfect. I used lightweight air-dry clay and rubbed it into the seams of my helmet, then I sanded it down and added a layer of wood glue to protect it and help it adhere. I think my armor is going to have a bit more of a OT texture to it, unlike the R1 armor, But I'm okay with that. I did my best. Wouldn't pass centurion level if it was fiberglass, but still pretty good. I also cut out the tube stripes. I think I might have made them a little too big, but I'm still pretty happy with them. The CRL's say between 9 and 13 tube stipes per side, so I'm good I made and painted all the greeblies separate. I'll glue them on after I finish painting the helmet. I left the rank bars unpainted, because I'm going to paint them after I glue them on. The brow trim and vocoder are painted with PlastiDip to give them that rubbery look and feel. The helmet is pretty much ready for it's first coat of paint. Unfortunately It's going to be rainy and wet for the next week, so I have to wait. While I wait, I'm just going to work on filling the seams on the rest of my armor. I've finished making all my armor except for my shins. I didn't want to make the shins, until I had the boots finished, so I could make sure that I'm not making them too small. But I'm having trouble finding a cheap pair of shoes for the base Well It's coming along smoothly so far and I'm becoming more sure that I'll have it finished by the end of the summer!
  20. The original bells were trimed with a curve to follow the armor and closing the gaps as Dan mentioned, looking at the pic of Han he provided you can see it and I´ll include additional pic of screen used bells so one can say for certain that straight cuts is a no-go but perhaps a bit less wavy
  21. Looks great. Lovely drop box alignment. :-)
  22. Shoulders are probably best to trim up once you have your arms and torso ready to wear. Then you can size them up. You want to keep the gap between the chest and shoulder bells to a minimum. Here’s what you’re aiming for. :-)
  23. Had a fun couple of hours finally assembling the belt and hooking up the holster. Will glue on the rivet caps once I've double-checked it works with the torso and thermal det.
  24. Hi Chris, Hmmm. It might be that the furthest out strapping from butt to kidney are not tight enough, however they seem to look okay. If the trooper butt remains an issue, you could consider shaping some ABS to glue to the butt plate, just below the return edge. If shaped and positioned correctly, this could prevent the butt from riding over the kidney. Here’s a rough idea of what I mean.
  25. It’s in the CRL OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and be black (two per clip).
  26. TK-9239 from the Southern California Garrison Requesting Access http://501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=8361&costumeID=326
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...