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  2. Troop #27 was 12 April 2019 at Star Wars Celebration Chicago. Had a blast all around just attending the event, hanging out with my squad mates, and suiting up in my white armor. The Korriban Squad FISD Group Photo Troop #28 was 14 April 2019 at Star Wars Celebration Chicago. This was my last day at Celebration and it started early with the 501st Legion Picture. Great way to end a great week. FYI I'm the one in white :).
  3. So the key here is to leave roughly 1/2" gap between your arm and the armor. Starting with the sides with a flat section cut to spec leaving roughly 8mm from edge of the plastic to where the return edge crease begins. Afterwards test fit to see if there's more material that needs to be removed from the opposite side/closure of the armor, if any. If so remove it from the inner half of the armor.
  4. Unless you pro paint it. After several troops mine looks like the day it came out of the paint shop
  5. Here's a nice reference photo Jeff, trim accordingly
  6. Word of warning, as much as I trust Walt I would encourage buyers to refrain from preordering until known kits are in stock, unless you can preorder without payment. This goes for any seller.
  7. That does look a bit small. If you push the sides in as if it were secured would that help round it out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Walt's Trooper Factory is taking pre-orders on an FOTK. No idea when it will be available (nothing on the facebook page). 850 Armor Works has something, but I have not seen any reviews of it yet. KB props has something as well, would like to see a recent review.
  9. PM sent. Thank you!! I can’t really pay you back, but I can pay it forward. I have 3 green acrylic lenses that fits a Black Series TK, free to anyone that needs one. I can’t believe I don’t have any pictures of my completed helmet, but I’ll get some up soon. I don’t know if they’ll work in other helmets. It’s the standard translucent green from TAP Plastics, much darker than the original lens. It will need to be shaped, and the softening temp seems to be a bit higher than ABS. I shaped it around a large glass container (think cookie jar). When you drill the holes, drill at an angle, matching the original. I was pleased with the way it fit.
  10. I wish I could help, but I didn’t even know that they had a panel. They just probably ended up giving the same unfriendly and useless answers as always whether or not in person. So to summarize everything that has happened so far: - Anovos does not make TFA fotk armor anymore, only tlj - Summarizing the posts they made, they will not change anything they did wrong and will not tell you when your order will ship, period. Given this situation, can someone please list on this forum the best vendors (that are not anovos) that are actively taking orders for tfa fotk now, since the other forum post is probably not as aware about the whole situation that is occurring on this forum post? Or can anyone reply to the post (that lists the armor vendors) a request look into this whole anovos situation and provide a new vendor guide for tfa fotk’s? P.S I’m going to continue holding onto my anovos fotk order permanently though. In the mean time, I need a second kit from another vendor for this year.
  11. PM me your address and I can mail some snaps and rivets to you.
  12. Have come to a stand still with the helmet can’t work out why the head hole is so small
  13. BBB arrived and started on the helmet
  14. So started my build but while I was waiting for BBB day I built my e-11 this is the finished produCt
  15. Ah fantastic, I'll definitely be making a pair of those. Thanks for sharing the diagram Sent from my H8216 using Tapatalk
  16. Here's another image from Social Media.
  17. The CRL doesn’t specify this so, personally, I’d go with screen accuracy. Check out the gallery (or star wars helmets.com) and follow those. Here’s a few examples; As you’ll see, most of them were cut straight up and down rather than slanted. :-)
  18. I do have a brow question. I’ve seen some brows that have been run past the traps, covering the bottom of them and run under the ears as well as left straight. I’ve seen some that are cut at an angle to cover the trap completely yet contour around the ears. And some the brow has stopped short of covering the traps when it’s stopped by the plastic under the ears. Which is Centurion level correct?
  19. Hi James, You could check out Bulldog Props. Brian is active here and makes great scopes. He makes ones suitable for electronics too. https://m.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/ It’s such a shame that the air soft E-11 has the issues that it has. The basis of the blaster is pretty good - just looks like they guessed where the t-tracks and scope went. Once you e made those changes it’ll be a cracking little piece. :-) When you do get a new scope, remember that it wants to sit about 2 or 3 inches further forward. As below, the rear foot should align with the coach bolt for the folding stock. Keep up the good work, Dan :-)
  20. Those proposed CRL changes seem to be causing concern across builds at the moment - however, there is consideration paid to the CRL guidelines that a trooper was following at the time of their build. So, stick to the current CRL for now. If you have complete photos of your progress, or ideally a build thread, we’d be happy to look over it for you. Best wishes Dan
  21. Alright, so I've only hit some main problem points so far. I'm actually taking some of my other parts to a con this Saturday so I can use them to show others how to repair/upkeep armor, but because I'm wearing it tomorrow here's what I've done. First I fixed the cracking spots. I found in the shoulders on the yoke where the cracks ended and drilled a hole through the end so it would end the crack point and prevent it from spreading. I then ordered some Devcon plastic welder as I heard that this was a little more flexible than just resin or fiberglass. So I mixed the two part Devcon and then filled the hole and the crack on both ends and after smoothed it out so it wouldn't require too much sanding after. I let it sit a day and then sanded it down. As you see in the above picture it still has a lot of chipped paint and problems. So I sanded to 400 grit and then applied some bondo filler over the areas that were rough. I let that sit a day and then sanded to 600 grit. I didn't get a lot of pictures sadly as I was rushing to get this ready for the con tomorrow. After sanding I was now able to spray again with paint I originally used, then the enamel clear coat to get it back to a good looking shiny white. Now it will cure overnight and be ready for tomorrow. another thing you might note from this picture is I've cut out the front section of the yoke that's under the chest plate. Why? Because it wasn't allowing me to move effectively and it made getting the yoke on and off much more difficult. It's the reason so much strain went on the shoulders and led to the cracking continuously happening. Now I can actually get it on and off at an angle that doesn't stress the armor and helps me so much more. I know a lot of vendors are building them like mine was built, but I'm going to say here that for guys like me that are more built in the shoulders, chest, and back, this is so much easier.
  22. So my helmet was a resin cast/fiberglass, but I'd also echo it's easier to do a basic sand to at most around 600 grit (don't want it too smooth that spray doesn't stick, then some plastidip does a great job at not only making it dark, but making it feel more sturdy like a real helmet.
  23. I'm going to trim all the armor before fitting and assembly. Just to make sure, I am leaving 1/8" return edge on all pieces except the cuff of the forearms and the top of the biceps where return edges are removed. I am trying to build to centurion and don't want to remove anything that needs to be left on. Thanks
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