BobbyFromBUF Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Hello, Thank you to everyone on this forum for all of you advice and knowledge! Especially, Pandatrooper. I will do my best to copy your techniques as often as I can. I really appreciate you taking time to create those tutorials. My kit is a TupperwareTK NE. I am building a Stunt ANH TK. My hope is to first build a costume worthy of acceptance into the 501st. From there I will see if I have what it takes to achieve EIB... Here is the obligatory packing shot. TupperwareTK once again proves that he is a great seller, taking great care to pack the armor very thoughtfully and efficiently. The NE kit is perfect and wonky all at the same time. Immediately upon receiving this kit I did what most Newbies seem to be doing... I stalled... I did not have a good space to work so I built a workbench. Then once my workbench was complete, I stalled again, and worked exclusively on my E11 Doopy Doo's Resin Blaster Kit. I am very pleased with the outcome of my blaster! Here is the blaster occupying a position of importance among the hot glue guns, haha! Finally to the armor... The kit is beautiful, but still the task of assembling it is very daunting... I am starting by working on small parts which seem fairly simple to me. My first attempt was with the handguards. I used the included elastic straps along with snap plates to connect the handguards. Using this strategy I'll be able to modify the handguards later if I decide that they look too big. I am also completing a second set of more accurate flexible handguards using a technique I learned from building a foam pepakura Iron Man suit last year. I "painted" the silicone handguards with Elmer's glue (5 coats), and then I will use spray paint over the top of the glue. The first coat of paint is currently drying... Just glue. With primer and 1 coat of paint. Next I moved on to the Thermal Detonator. I am proud to say that I machined my own clips out of some sheet metal I had laying around :-) I think my stalling must finally come to an end.... We shall see what tomorrow brings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Can anyone out there help me identify these parts correctly? I know the "thumb print" is on the left front bicep. So, clearly the other front bicep is the right one. But, I'm having the hardest time figuring out which back belongs to which... Also, the orientation is throwing me off. In the pic below, imagine the upper arm parts are open like clam shells. Is this correct? I'm so confused... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTrooper[TK] Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Looks like you have them paired correctly, the curved sides are the front of the bicep. Size them up and glue them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Looks like you have them paired correctly, the curved sides are the front of the bicep. Size them up and glue them Thank you so much! Just so nervous, haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Here are the results of my Trooperbay Flexible Handguards experiment: First, I'd like to say that I am pleased with the outcome. So, maybe this technique is not for everyone, but since I tried something "new" I thought I would share. I ended up using 5 coats of Elmer's Glue All, followed by 2 coats of Rust-oleum Painter's Touch Gray Primer, finished with 2 coats of Rust-oleum Painter's Touch (Ultra Cover) Semi-gloss White. As you can see from the pics I think the color match to the NE kit is good. Also, they could be very easily "weathered" to more accurately match the screen used latex ones. I sort of like them the way they are for now, and I will likely leave them as is for now... I found that the 5 coats of glue gave me a good surface to paint. I just brushed the glue on with a cheap-o paintbrush, and I only painted the top side of the handguards. I wanted the bottom of the handguards to remain as it came from Trooperbay so that I could follow their instructions for attaching them to the black chemical gloves. The glue self-leveled as it dried. It also turned from white to clear as it dried. I then followed up with 2 light coats of gray primer. I did this so that as the handguards become naturally worn (trooping) some gray will begin to show through the scratches. Then finally, 2 coats of semi-gloss white. As I attached the handguards to the rubber gloves I used Zap-A-Gap and Zip-Kicker. I found that the Zip Kicker reacted a bit with the paint, and made the dry paint become tacky again. Use caution with this as the tacky paint will begin coming off the handguards onto your fingers as you are pressing the handguards down as the glue dries. If you inadvertently touch the black gloves with the tacky white paint on your finger tips you will leave white marks on your gloves. I'd love to hear feedback on this idea if you'd like to share... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTrooper[TK] Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Thank you so much! Just so nervous, haha! Enjoy your build, it's ok to be nervous. I was on my first build, just don't worry to much. there are plenty of people to help you here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Can any help me positively identify my forearm parts? I'm hoping to know: Inside Left: Outside Left: Inside Right: Outside Right: Thanks a bunch in advance if anyone can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTrooper[TK] Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 (edited) #1 goes with #4and #2 with #3.. The left outer forearm has 11 dimples the right outer has 12 Edited September 6, 2013 by SCTrooper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 #1 goes with #4and #2 with #3.. The left outer forearm has 11 dimples the right outer has 12 Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! I have been searching different combinations of keywords all day!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTrooper[TK] Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 No problem, just be sure to remove all the return at the wrist before sizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 So, I have been absent from the forums here for quite some time. Well, I recently broke a bone in my foot, and I will be back at it with great vigor. With that said, I have sort of a "dumb" question. How do most TK builders come to obtain "finishing strips" or "cover strips"? Does everyone just make their own? If so, is there a good tutorial on this somewhere? If not, is there a reliable place to buy them for my TupperwareTK NE kit? Sorry if this is a silly question, but I have been doing quite a bit of searching through the forums with no luck. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) Also, I just realized that my build thread is in the wrong location. Can anyone help me relocate to the "Build Threads" section? My apologies... Edited April 23, 2014 by BobbyFromBUF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 They're usually supplied with the kit as large sheets of ABS that you cut to length and width needed. If not Trooperbay sold some. However i don't know if the ABS stripes he sold would match the NE's ABS hue. http://trooperbay.com/abs-plastic-extension-strips/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Got it. My kit did come with those, but I wasn't sure if I had missed something. I reread Panda Trooper's thread, and I think I'm understanding now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) More progress. I have purchased CAB Boots for my TK - which are great, and I will likely occasionally wear them trooping once my armor is complete. However, I happened to have an old pair of boots which seemed suitable for a MOD project. One thing I really like about them, is that I have worn them around for years, and they are very, very broken in. I'll spare you too many details, but I used some methods I learned here on FISD, and dyed the boots using Tarrago leather dye. I'm pretty pleased with the results. My biggest take away from this MOD is that you must make sure your tape is pressed down firmly. My tape was not, and I ended up with a bit of a mess on the sole of the boot. Like this... IMAG5116 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr Once I pulled the tape off I was a bit bummed out regarding the results. However, I pressed on, and decided to use an X-acto to scrape off the excess white dye drips. With some patience and a steady hand I was able to remove my mess pretty well... IMAG5117 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr Here is a side by side look at the boots. The left boots is all trimmed and the right boot is still looking sloppy.... IMAG5115 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr So, I'm hoping that with this "broken in/worn" look my boots will be worthy of the 501st... Edited April 30, 2014 by BobbyFromBUF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Now to build some real armor... I am working on my armor slowly, and I have nearly completed the bicep assembly. I have finished one side of each bicep including the finishing strip, but I am reluctant to completely button them up until I get some nods of approval from some fellow troopers. Are they looking good? Should I just stop fretting and seal them up and move on already? Haha, I'm being such a wimp about this... IMAG5125 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr IMAG5124 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 My suggestion is when you are sizing your pieces, wear your undersuit. That way you'll know exactly how it's going to look and fit when you're suited up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) My suggestion is when you are sizing your pieces, wear your undersuit. That way you'll know exactly how it's going to look and fit when you're suited up. Definitely a good tip. I think I'm satisfied with the fit (I did try it on with the undersuit the other day). I was looking for more of a comment on the appearance of the parts (i.e. do my seams look okay? Is everything lining up the way it should.) Thanks for looking and responding, Maxsteele. :-) I am following along with your updates daily. Nice work! Looks like you've got your split rivets all worked out. I am about a month behind you at least... IMAG5120 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr IMAG5121 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr Edited April 30, 2014 by BobbyFromBUF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 So, I think I started this thread before a separate ANH Build Forum was started. I realize that now my thread is in the wrong place. I will stop posting in this thread and begin a new one in the correct place. Sorry for any inconvenience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 So, I think I started this thread before a separate ANH Build Forum was started. I realize that now my thread is in the wrong place. I will stop posting in this thread and begin a new one in the correct place. Sorry for any inconvenience... Or I just move this thread and delete your other one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Or I just move this thread and delete your other one. Awesome! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 So, I wanted to make some progress, but was struggling with direction. Hence, I just made a bunch of randomly sized snap plates. IMAG5144 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr I trimmed my shoulder bridges, and added filler strips on the underside of the trenches. Like this... IMAG5145 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr IMAG5146 by bobby_whalen, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 I would like to attach the snap plates to the chest and back for the shoulder strapping system, but I'm not sure of the exact best placement... I have been performing forum searches all morning without being able to find an exact photo or explanation that will give me the confidence to move forward. Any advice? Should I tape the chest and upper back together, and see how that fits? Also, my kit came with Tupperware TK's strapping system. The straps are made of elastic, so I was thinking I might use these straps, but also make identical straps out of nylon webbing. I have built Iron Man armor previously. For that project I used nylon webbing instead of elastic. I preferred this fit for wearing the costume. It helps prevent sagging, but does limit mobility a bit... Thoughts are appreciated. Also, in my strapping kit there were 2 white velcro straps included. Should these be used on the shoulders under the bridges? I see some troopers on the FISD using black strapping in this area... I would like to do this area "right" as it is highly visible, and being near the helmet will end up being a focal point for onlookers... Elastic Strap Guide from TupperwareTK Shoulder Question by bobby_whalen, on Flickr Thanks in advance for any advice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 From the builds I have studied, the ones that use the elastic that ships with the NE armor looks sloppy. First, it's velcro. Second, the elastic is real stretchy. Third, it's not cut to fit you, it's generic lengths. I suggest getting the one inch ribbed elastic from JoAnns: http://www.joann.com/non-roll-elastic-25-yds-/zprd_10107480a.html#prefn1=isProject&prefn2=refinementColor&prefv2=Blacks&prefv1=false&start=8 For the shoulders, I got 2 inch white elastic. Couldn't find a link to it, but it is not ribbed. I am going to double it over when I make the straps for the shoulders. As for the location to glue in the snap plates, The location isn't as important as getting the proper strap lengths between snaps. I glued the shoulder snap plates in right up to the edge of each shoulder lip. Basically, I followed Redforce's strapping setup: I put the left and right snaps on the butt plate further out to the ends. I'm also not going to use snaps on the left side of the ab / kidney connection. I'm going to do elastic attached to the split rivets. As for snap placement on the back and chest plates which attach to the ab and kidney, that's going to depend on how the chest and back hang with the shoulder straps. They way I look at it, we know how the ab is going to fit on us, because that cod piece can only go in one place. So once you get the proper position of the ab, you know where the kidney is going to go, because the top of the kidney lines up with the top of the ab. So you tape together the ab and the kidney on your body, and you then know where the bottom of the chest should reach on the ab, and where the bottom of the back should reach on the kidney. At that point, you now know how much of a gap to have up at the shoulder connections. Measure the distance between the snap plates on the front and back of the shoulder joins, and that's how long you make those straps. Once that's in place, you can put in the snap plates and make the straps for the chest-to-ab and back-to-kidney connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyFromBUF Posted May 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks so much for the great pointers! Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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